The Square

The Square is a 2 Michelin starred restaurant in Mayfair and, as you would expect, is sleek and sophisticated. What I didn’t know and what you might not either is that in addition to the a la carte menu The Square regularly hosts special dinners focusing on a particular theme. We were lucky enough to be there, courtesy of head chef Philip Howard, for Go Wild at The Square, showcasing the amazing game and autumn produce this country has to offer.

The 9 course tasting menu started with roasted and smoked chestnuts, hand peeled, as Chef Howard’s aching hands could personally testify! Nothing speaks to me more of autumn than roasted chestnuts so this really set the tone for the meal.

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Next was game consommé accompanied by pickled walnuts and venison canapés. Consomme seems to have fallen out of favour recently but it has a real depth and clarity of flavour. The bite sized morsels that accompanied it were divine, standout for me was a venison tartare.

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Then Loch Ryan native oyster with a tartare of mackerel, seawater jellies and caviar, fresh and briny it took me back to my childhood, growing up near West Mersey Island. As a child I never really appreciated these salty treats, but then they weren’t presented in quite the same way on our school trips! If anything could convert former oyster haters it would be this delicate dish.

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Next ravioli of cepes with crushed pumpkin, chanterelles and pine oil, again this was autumn on a plate.

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The fish course was fillets of dove sole with truffled cauliflower puree. What stole the show for me was the truffled cauliflower, never before or since has the humble cauli inspired such feelings in me. If I thought I could get away with it I would have licked my plate clean!

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The meat course was breast of grouse with a croustillant of the leg, medlar jelly and bacon. I will be honest I was very full at this point and so couldn’t properly do this dish justice but I loved the sharpness of the medlar jelly against the richness of the grouse.

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Pre dessert was a piece of showmanship a quince and sloe sphere, what nefarious arts created this I’m not sure, but it was inspired.

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Dessert was a signature Square dish Brillat savarin Cheesecake with elderberry and cobnuts.

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Finally Canelle de Bordeaux with Fulham Palace honey and beeswax a small French pastry with a soft and tender custard center and a dark, thick caramelized crust. They had been baked in beeswax and the scent as they were brought into the room was delicious.

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I would recommend keeping an eye on the Square’s blog to see what other special dinners are coming up, as a decadent way to spend a Monday evening it can’t be beaten!

Twitter: @square_rest @philiphoward8 @MeMoInteractive


6-10 Bruton Street
Mayfair, London

Tel: +44 (0) 20 7495 7100
Fax: +44 (0) 20 7495 7150


Tel: +44 (0) 20 7495 7100
Reservations online

About goantolondon

International food and travel blog by London based British Goan duo: Jason and Chiara Pinto. Twitter: @goantolondon @jasonpinto100 @chiarapinto About Goa: Goa is a small state on the western coast of India. Though the smallest Indian state, Goa has played an influential role in Indian history. Goa was one of the major trade centers in India, thus it had always been attracting the influential dynasties, seafarers, merchants, traders, monks and missionaries since its earliest known history. Throughout its history Goa has undergone continual transformation, leaving an indelible impression on various aspects of its cultural and socio-economic development. History of Goa: The East-West symbiosis of Goa makes it different from other parts of India, more than the historical and social niche. The history of Goa is a sweet and sour story of colonial heritage, oppressive rulers, a glorious culture, and uneventful immediate past. As a land with the identity of its own, Goa was brought into focus when it was liberated of Portugal from its oppressive rule of around 450 hundred years in 1961. Goa was captured and annexed to the Portuguese in 1510 following the urges of trade and demand of spices and also cottons and indigo. But, Goa has a history that starts much before Portugal even thought of Goa being where it is. Goa was coveted and ruled by a great number of Indian kingdoms and dynasties from the 4th century onwards. The first kingdom to rule Goa and Konkan were Bhojas, who were the feudatories of Ashoka in 4th and 5th centuries AD. The city of Chandrapur (present Chandor) was founded by Prince Chandraditya, son of Chalukya King Pulakesin from 566 to 597 A.D. after this, Goa was ruled consecutively by Silahara Dynasty, Kadamba Danasty, and finally Hoysalas from 1022 to 1342 A.D. From the 14th century onwards, Goa became a great trading center on the west coast, especially in the vast trade of horses imported from the Middle East. This was the time for bigger empires to move in and Vijayanagar Empire conquered it in 1344. But there empire was not going to last too long and in 1347, Bahmani Sultans defeated Vijayanagara forces in 1347 and controlled Goa. Afterwards, it was a time of great prosperity and peace for Gpa, especially during the rules of Yusuf Adil Shah and Ismail Adil Shah. They created beautiful houses, fortified Goa, and encouraged local craftsmen. Their liberal and progressive rule was not going to last too long and situation changed in 1510 A.D. Goa for all purposes was not on the Portuguese Radar even after a long time of their presence in India. When the Portuguese nobleman Alfonso de Albuquerque and his cousin Francisco de Albuquerque were sent with a powerful fleet in 1503 on the orders of King Dom Manuel I, the purpose was to defend the cargoes of spices, mostly pepper, against Arab Muslim raiders. The center of spice trade was Calicut at that time and Portuguese had built forts in Cochin and Cannanore. It was in 1506-08 that an opportunistic pirate, Timoja, persuaded Albuquerque to attack Goa and acquire a better land base. This made Goa, Portugal's first real territorial acquisition in Asia. After a brief period of recapturing by the Muslims, Goa Albuquerque finally captured Goa in 1510. The inquisition of Goa in 1540 reversed the previous liberal policy of Albuquerque and imposed strict censorship of literature and new laws to forbade non-Christians from professions. Forced conversions took place continuously, censorship was established on literature, the temples were destroyed, and non-Christian priests, holy men, and teachers were evicted. This led to continuous fleeing of Hindus from Goa to other parts of India. It is not that the relationship with Portugal brought only destruction for the Goans. Portuguese also built great churches like the church of St. Cajetan and Bom Jesus basilica in Old Goa, which is a pilgrimage site for the Christians from around the world. But it is also true that pre-1961; Goa was a highly impoverished region very backward and primitive. It is after the liberation that Goa of today has emerged and it has surprised even the locals many of whom had left their homeland before its liberation. Portugal and India are today friends and Goa continues to be a fascinating blend of Latin and Oriental. Information sourced from:
This entry was posted in Bars, British, london, Mayfair, menus and prices, Oysters, Philip Howard, seafood, tasting menus, The Square, Venison, wild game and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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