The Square is a 2 Michelin starred restaurant in Mayfair and, as you would expect, is sleek and sophisticated. What I didn’t know and what you might not either is that in addition to the a la carte menu The Square regularly hosts special dinners focusing on a particular theme. We were lucky enough to be there, courtesy of head chef Philip Howard, for Go Wild at The Square, showcasing the amazing game and autumn produce this country has to offer.
The 9 course tasting menu started with roasted and smoked chestnuts, hand peeled, as Chef Howard’s aching hands could personally testify! Nothing speaks to me more of autumn than roasted chestnuts so this really set the tone for the meal.
Next was game consommé accompanied by pickled walnuts and venison canapés. Consomme seems to have fallen out of favour recently but it has a real depth and clarity of flavour. The bite sized morsels that accompanied it were divine, standout for me was a venison tartare.
Then Loch Ryan native oyster with a tartare of mackerel, seawater jellies and caviar, fresh and briny it took me back to my childhood, growing up near West Mersey Island. As a child I never really appreciated these salty treats, but then they weren’t presented in quite the same way on our school trips! If anything could convert former oyster haters it would be this delicate dish.
Next ravioli of cepes with crushed pumpkin, chanterelles and pine oil, again this was autumn on a plate.
The fish course was fillets of dove sole with truffled cauliflower puree. What stole the show for me was the truffled cauliflower, never before or since has the humble cauli inspired such feelings in me. If I thought I could get away with it I would have licked my plate clean!
The meat course was breast of grouse with a croustillant of the leg, medlar jelly and bacon. I will be honest I was very full at this point and so couldn’t properly do this dish justice but I loved the sharpness of the medlar jelly against the richness of the grouse.
Pre dessert was a piece of showmanship a quince and sloe sphere, what nefarious arts created this I’m not sure, but it was inspired.
Dessert was a signature Square dish Brillat savarin Cheesecake with elderberry and cobnuts.
Finally Canelle de Bordeaux with Fulham Palace honey and beeswax a small French pastry with a soft and tender custard center and a dark, thick caramelized crust. They had been baked in beeswax and the scent as they were brought into the room was delicious.
I would recommend keeping an eye on the Square’s blog to see what other special dinners are coming up, as a decadent way to spend a Monday evening it can’t be beaten!
6-10 Bruton Street
Tel: +44 (0) 20 7495 7100
Fax: +44 (0) 20 7495 7150